2020年9月27日 星期日

Tiramisu is meant to be an Italian classic.



Thirty years ago tiramisu was an obscure dish – but now it is on Italian menus everywhere. 1843 digs in to the history behind the dessert that has charmed us all



ECONOMIST.COM
Tiramisu is meant to be an Italian classic. The truth is more complicated
The “pick me up” pudding


2020年7月12日 星期日

傳承百年的「秘傳醬汁」流失 熊本縣鰻魚老店因豪雨受災


創業112年的老字號鰻魚店「上村鰻魚店」出現了淹水災情。該店是也會有觀光客等人排隊的人氣鰻魚店。而從創業以來守護至今的「秘傳醬汁」,現已隨著泥水一同流走了。

2020年6月5日 星期五

雪莉酒

【西班牙,不只海鮮飯 ~ 雪莉酒】
前幾天談到西班牙最有名的調酒 Sangría,發現大家有酒精就好嗨,所以,今天就談西班牙南部最有名的雪莉酒。
雪莉酒受到原產地命名保護制度(DOP/Denominación de Origen Protegida)的保護,只產於安達魯西亞的 Jerez de la Frontera、Puerto de Santa Maria 跟 Sanlucar de Barrameda 三地之間,採用麝香葡萄、Palomino 及 Pedro Ximénez 三個品種的葡萄,以索雷拉陳釀系統方式釀造。因其獨特的酵母菌,葡萄汁的糖分發酵後仍能繼續發酵,形成酵母薄膜(稱為酒花 Flor del Vino),一方面與酒液繼續產生作用,也防止酒液跟空氣接觸而氧化,因而賦予雪莉酒豐富特殊風味。
雪莉酒種類繁多,味道不同、顏色不同,甜度也不同,可以細分為:
🍇高度酒(Generosos),又分為:
🍷 菲諾酒(fino):銘黃色,發酵後進行第一次分類,因為酒體輕顏色淡,而被分類為可以拿來釀製菲諾酒(Fino),加烈至15 度~15.5度,由生物陳釀(Crianza Biológica)而成。
🍷 曼薩尼亞酒(manzanilla):顏色透明淡金, 只產於 Sanlucar de Barrameda,釀造方式跟菲諾酒一樣。
🍷 阿蒙蒂亞朵酒(amontillado):淺琥珀色,釀造前期跟菲諾酒一樣,因為酒體輕顏色淡,而被分類為可以拿來釀製菲諾酒(Fino),加烈至15 度~15.5度,進行生物陳釀(Crianza Biológica),後來在索雷拉陳釀系統出現變化,酒花消失,結束生物陳釀, 開始氧化陳釀(Crianza Oxidativa),在第二次分類時被歸類為阿蒙蒂亞朵酒。
🍷 俄洛羅索酒(oloroso):琥珀色,發酵後進行第一次分類,因為酒體粗顏色濃,而被分類為可以拿來釀製俄洛羅索酒(oloroso),加烈至 17度~18度,由氧化陳釀(Crianza Oxidativa)而成。
🍷 帕羅科爾達多酒(Palo Cortado):紅褐色,釀造前期跟俄洛羅索酒一樣,因為酒體粗顏色濃,而被分類為可以拿來釀製俄洛羅索酒(oloroso),加烈至17度~18度,開始氧化陳釀(Crianza Oxidativa),但是,在第二次分類時,因為其味道特別, 有俄洛羅索酒厚重酒體,卻另外帶有精緻特殊的香氣,所以釀酒師在橡木桶上以一豎標記(Palo),再次鑑別後確定其特色,再以一橫標記 (Cortado),就認證為帕羅科爾達多酒(Palo Cortado)。
🍇自然甜酒(Dulces Naturales):葡萄曝曬成帶有高糖度的葡萄乾,萃取其葡萄汁發酵而成,又分為:
🍷 佩德羅希梅內斯(Pedro Ximénez):以佩德羅-希梅內斯葡 萄葡萄釀造的自然甜酒。
🍷 麝香葡萄酒(Moscatel):以麝香葡萄釀造的自然甜酒。
🍇高度烈酒(Generosos de Licor)又分為:
🍷 淡色奶油酒(Pale Cream):金黃色,甜化菲諾酒或曼薩尼亞酒。
🍷 中級酒(Medium):琥珀色, 是甜化的阿蒙蒂亞朵酒(或其他生 物陳釀的酒)。
🍷 克林姆雪利酒(Cream):淺棕色,是甜化的俄洛羅索酒(或其他氧化陳釀的酒)。
因為雪利酒有分索雷拉的陳釀年份,酒瓶上會有特別標示,VOS 是超過20 年的,VORS 是超過 30 年的。
我個人最愛的是超過 30 年的 VORS 的 Pedro Ximénez,很純很甜而且不膩,搭配味道濃郁的綿羊乳製作的 cheesecake,真是天下美味!
你喝過雪利酒嗎?喝過哪一種?
導遊的新書《西班牙,不只海鮮飯》裡有談到西班牙其他的特有美食喔!
照片:El Consejo Regulador | Vinos de Jerez - Sherry Wines

2020年5月14日 星期四

making moonshine


Sri Lankans desperate for a tipple have been mixing everything from beets to pineapple with sugar, water and yeast, and leaving the cocktail to ferment

2020年3月21日 星期六

唐魯孫記憶菜色:


唐魯孫只想了想,就寫下:南通清湯魚翅、揚州獅子頭、江陰鳳凰包雞、南京冬筍炒菊花腦、無錫富貴雞和肉骨頭、太倉酥炒肉鬆、鎮江清蒸鰣魚、常熟醬雞醬排骨。
以上菜色僅九牛一毛,也只江蘇一省,二三線城市。今日還有無人記得,大成疑問。
到了那些地方,還是否吃得如此講究的地道菜?食材的清潔、廚工的藝術,是否還能與一百年前相比?
還有鹹點甜品:揚州蜂糖糕、淮城湯包、蘇州棗泥餅、常州菜餅。即江蘇半省,出名的點心也有 2、30 種。
當然還未算廣東飲茶的蝦餃燒賣,叉燒包鳳爪蘿蔔糕。
詳細全文:

2020年3月18日 星期三

Visualizing Taste: How Business Changed the Look of What You Eat, Ai Hisano


We take for granted the color of our food as natural—as natural as the sky is blue. But in Visualizing Taste: How Business Changed the Look of What You Eat, Ai Hisano exposes how corporations, the American government, and consumers shaped the colors of what we eat and even the colors of what we consider “natural,” “fresh,” and “wholesome.” Here she discusses some of the colors we have come to expect our food to be.

2020年2月5日 星期三

sachertorte 薩赫蛋糕


When sachertorte was invented, in 1832, chocolate cakes were much rarer than they are now. 1843 tells the story of how it became the subject of a seven-year legal battle
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1843MAGAZINE.COM

sachertorte 薩赫蛋糕 

ザッハトルテ

薩赫蛋糕是一種巧克力蛋糕,1832年由Franz Sacher奧地利維也納發明。蛋糕由兩層甜巧克力和兩層巧克力中間的杏子醬構成,蛋糕上面有巧克力片。
薩赫蛋糕


Sachertorte (German pronunciation: [ˈzaxɐˌtɔʁtə] (About this soundlisten)) is a chocolate cake, or torte of Austrian origin,[1][2] invented by Franz Sacher[3] in 1832 for Prince Metternich in Vienna.[4] It is one of the most famous Viennese culinary specialties.[5] December 5 is National Sachertorte Day in the United States.[6]

History[edit]

Sachertorte was invented by Franz Sacher, who was a pastry chef chancellor Metternich. Sachertorte remains popular in Austria and worldwide.

Composition[edit]

The cake consists of a dense chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam on top, coated in dark chocolate icing on the top and sides. It is traditionally served with unsweetened whipped cream.[7][8]

Variations[edit]

The "Original" Sacher Torte has two layers of apricot jam between the outer layer of chocolate icing and the sponge base, while Demel's "Eduard-Sacher-Torte" has only one. Demel's cake is denser and smoother.[citation needed]
Some of the various recipes for cakes similar to the "Original" are listed below. For example, at "Graz-Kulturhauptstadt 2003", a festival marking the city of Graz being declared cultural capital that year, "Sacher-Masoch-Torte" was presented (its name alluding to Leopold von Sacher-Masoch), using redcurrant jam and marzipan.[citation needed]

Production and sale of the "Original Sacher Torte"[edit]

Hotel Sacher's "Original Sacher Torte" is sold at the Vienna and Salzburg locations of the Hotel Sacher, at Cafe Sacher branches in Innsbruck and Graz, at the Sacher Shop in Bolzano, in the Duty Free area of Vienna airport, and via the Hotel Sacher's online shop.[citation needed]
The recipe of the Hotel Sacher's version of the cake is a closely guarded secret. Those privy to it claim that the secret to the Sacher Torte's desirability lies not in the ingredients of the cake itself, but rather those of the chocolate icing.[citation needed] According to widely available information,[citation needed] the icing consists of three special types of chocolate, which are produced exclusively by different manufacturers for this sole purpose. The hotel obtains these products from Lübeck in Germany and from Belgium.[citation needed]
The Hotel Sacher has gone to great lengths to distinguish the Original Sacher Torte from other variations. This includes four golden corners on the wooden box, the wood engraving of the Hotel Sacher Wien as well as “Das Original” and “Hotel Sacher Wien” in writing in the inside of the lid, and bordeaux red wrapping paper with a Biedermeier motif.[9]

Legal dispute with Demel's[edit]

In 1934, the Demel pastry shop started selling "Eduard Sacher-Torte", while the Sacher Hotel sold the "Original Sacher-Torte". The hotel's owners sued Demel for trademark infringement, and won in 1938. The lawsuit was appealed after the war, and the hotel was eventually given the exclusive right to call its version "the original".[10]