2009年2月21日 星期六

Polenta ‘Pizza’ With Pancetta and Spinach

Polenta ‘Pizza’ With Pancetta and Spinach

Francesco Tonelli for The New York Times
Polenta "pizza" with pancetta and spinach.





pancetta
[pan-CHEH-tuh] An Italian bacon that is cured with salt and spices but not smoked. Flavorful, slightly salty pancetta comes in a sausagelike roll. It's used in Italian cooking to flavor sauces, pasta dishes, forcemeats, vegetables and meats. Pancetta can be tightly wrapped and refrigerated for up to 3 weeks, or frozen up to 6 months.


Polenta with sopressa and mushrooms. This polenta was made with yellow flour of Storo.



Polenta is a dish made from boiled cornmeal. Although the word is borrowed into English from Italian, the dish (under various names) is popular in Italian,Slovenian Žganci, Savoyard, Swiss, Austrian, Portuguese, Bosnian, Croatian (where it is called Palenta or, in Dalmatia, pura), Cuban, American, Hungarian (where it is called puliszka), , Serbian (kačamak in Serbian), Romanian (where it is called mămăligă), Bulgarian, Georgian, Corsican, Argentine, Uruguayan, Brazilian, Peruvian, Venezuelan, Haitian, Mexican and Turkish (typically from the Black Sea region, known as mamalika) cuisines, and it is a traditional staple food throughout much of Northern Italy.

Time: About 45 minutes, plus one hour’s chilling

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, more for pan

1/2 cup milk, preferably whole

Salt

1 cup coarse cornmeal

Freshly ground black pepper

1 small onion, chopped

1/2 cup (about 4 ounces) chopped pancetta

1 pound spinach, washed, trimmed and dried

1 to 1 1/2 cups Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled.

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees; brush a layer of olive oil on a pizza pan or cookie sheet. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine milk with 2 1/2 cups water and a large pinch of salt. Bring just about to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and add cornmeal in a steady stream, whisking all the while to prevent lumps from forming. Turn heat to low and simmer, whisking frequently, until thick, 10 or 15 minutes. If mixture becomes too thick, whisk in a bit more water; you want a consistency approaching thick oatmeal.

2. Stir 1 tablespoon oil into cooked cornmeal (polenta). Spoon it onto prepared pan, working quickly so polenta does not stiffen; spread it evenly to a thickness of about 1/2 inch all over. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover baking sheet with plastic wrap and put it in refrigerator until it is firm, an hour or more (you can refrigerate polenta overnight if you prefer).

3. Put polenta in oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until it begins to brown and crisp on edges. Meanwhile, put two tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and pancetta is nicely browned, about 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to take onion and pancetta out of pan; set aside. Add spinach to skillet and sauté until it releases its water and pan becomes dry; sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper.

4. Take polenta out of oven, sprinkle with Gorgonzola, then spread onion-pancetta mixture and spinach evenly on top of cheese; drizzle with another tablespoon olive oil. Put pizza back in oven for two minutes, or until cheese begins to melt and pancetta and vegetables are warmed through. Cut into slices and serve hot or at room temperature.

Yield: 4 servings.

Variation: Before you put polenta in oven, top it with thin slices of fresh mozzarella, two or three thinly sliced Roma tomatoes or a bit of tomato sauce, and a handful of fresh basil leaves.

2009年2月14日 星期六

Brill braised in vin jaune, smoked pork and broccoli



Brill braised in vin jaune, smoked pork and broccoli at the Sportsman. There is an eight-course tasting menu and à la carte entrees.

Photo: Jonathan Player for The New York Times




brill 一種 flatfish

vin jaune[van ZHOHN]
French for "yellow wine," referring to a type of wine made in eastern France's jura region. aged for 6 years, vin jaune undergoes a process similar to a fino-style sherry whereby a film of flor (a yeast) covers the wine's surface. This layer prevents oxidation while allowing evaporation, thereby creating the wine's subsequent concentration. The result is a sherrylike wine with a delicate, nutty richness that can age for decades. The best-known vin jaune, made from savagnin grapes, is from the château-chalon ac.

braise


━━ vt. (肉を)蒸し煮する.

2009年2月2日 星期一

東坡湯 鯉魚

蘇東坡自己善于做菜,也樂意自己做菜吃,他太太一定頗為高興。根据記載,蘇東坡認為在黃州豬肉极賤,可惜“富者不肯吃,貧者不解煮”,他頗引 為憾事。他告訴人一個炖豬肉的方法,极為簡單。就是用很少的水煮開之后,用文火炖上數小時,當然要放醬油。

他做魚的方法,是今日中國人所熟知的。他先選一 條鯉魚,用冷水洗,擦上點儿鹽,里面塞上白菜心。然后放在煎鍋里,放几根小蔥白,不用翻動,一直煎,半熟時,放几片生姜,再澆上一點儿鹹蘿卜汁和一點儿 酒。快要好時,放上几片橘子皮,乘熱端到桌上吃。

  他又發明了一种青菜湯,就叫做東坡湯。這根本是窮人吃的,他推荐給和尚吃。方法就是 用兩層鍋,米飯在菜湯上蒸,同時飯菜全熟。下面的湯里有白 菜、蘿卜、油菜根、芥菜,下鍋之前要仔細洗好,放點儿姜。在中國古時,湯里照例要放進些生米。在青菜已經煮得沒有生味道之后,蒸的米飯就放入另一個漏鍋 里,但要留心莫使湯碰到米飯,這樣蒸汽才能進得均勻。